JMS08BA1WH General Electric Range - Instructions

Installation took 30 seconds. Your website was easy to use & the part received was just as described. It arrived beautifully wrapped & in just a few days. ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!I will recommend your site to everyone.

I pulled out the heating coil and pushed in the new coil. I turned the stove top on and heard a sound like "dzzzt". I immediately turned off the burner and waited for it to cool, then pulled it out. The part had a burn melt on one side of the end prong. It turns out that the part that the burner plugs into needs to be replaced. Actually, the stove top is over 20 years old and my landlord will have to replace the whole unit. So it turns out that I didn't need to order a surface element after all, but it was very easy to install!

ordered new surface element and pushed in to conector turned on switch to test and works fine thanks

Dislodged screws to oven door to get to handle assembly. Fairly easy, however, new door handle end caps do not come with screws and the old screws were not a good fit. Almost stripped the old screw trying to get it in place. Strongly suggest that Part Select send replacement screws with handle to facilitate repair. Door handle is back up but is now loose until I can find/secure appropriate replacement screws and repeat the process all over again.

First I made sure I turned off the breakers in the circuit box that controlled the circuits for the ovens . Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. The factory wrapped a large amount of tape around the connection between the wires and the heating element. That took a while to get off. And I searched for heat-resistant electric tape to replace it (because, it must have served some purpose if they had it on originally). The wires hooked onto the spade connectors for the new elements with no problem. I pushed them back into the hole in the back of the oven, replaced the screws, turned the breakers back on, and it worked great from there on.

This the second time in three years the end caps broke. The first time the replacement end caps slid right on but, this time it was an extreemly tight fit. I had to sprsy white greese on the handle bar and inside the end cap and, even then I thought the end caps would break it was so hard to get on.

Repair was basically simple. Remove 6 screws holding door facing on door, remove one screw holding handle end caps in place. Then reverse the operation installing handle end caps. The problem I had was that the new a end caps had different dimensions than the old ones and the handle wouldn't slip into them. Had to carve away material inside the new caps with an exacto knife in order to fit the handle. The result was a 15 minute job took well over an hour

Very easy fix. After removing the six screws that held the door together, it was a cinch to replace the end caps and put the door back together. Works just like new!!

I had to struggle to get the pliers to grab hold of the screw because they were so tight. I was worried about "stripping the screws" but finally they loosened and I got them both out. My friend was holding the flashlight, so that helped. I was not real sure what to do next but the wires popped off the element so it was clear that all I had to do was pop the new one on. Easy. I had the most trouble trying to get the screws out. I saved myself $$$. Thanks for your help in sending the correct part!

It was easy except that I had to make just a small modification to the electrical connection (holes were to small). . . . Other than that, its was a breeze to install.

My son took care of removing the broken parts, opening the door and replacing the new handle ends and then finished! It was easy watching him do the work!!!

I shut off the power at the circuit breaker. I loosened the screws securing the baking element to the back wall. I then pulled out the baking element toward me and found the wire leads bolted using self-tapping screws to the original element. Since the holes on the mounting tabs did not take the old screws, I had to drill out the holes on the tabs of the replacement element. After securely bolting the leads to either terminal on the element, I had to drill two holes on the back wall for the mounting plate of the new element. Then I used the cordless drill with the Philips bit to drive in stainless steel self-tapping screws (not zip screws) to secure the element to the back wall. I turned on the power at the circuit breaker and reset the clock (mechanical).

Needed to drill two new holes for fastening the element to the oven wall. Change in design. Enlarged the holes in the spade connections since I was unable to find smaller bolts than 4-40.
I would suggest to make the holes in the spade connections larger.
The change out was not a problem.

Removed door from unit, removed two screws on the insideof the door and open door in two, (inside and outside), removed two screws from each door handle end, replaced with new ones and Bingo !!!

Repair was very easy-make sure you shut the electricity off at the breaker box-having the oven control off does not kill the electricty to the element . Removed the screws, pull out the element, disconnected two wires, re-attach to the new element, install the screws.