PGS920SEF4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I thought I was being a total girl and was afraid of fixing my oven myself, but when it took forever to get my landlord to come over and fix my oven I ordered the part, got it in three days, followed the directions online and fixed it myself! Easy, easy! Turned off the electric, switched off the gas, unscrewed 2 bolts, unplugged the old switch, screwed in the new switch, replugged it and turned on the stove. Roasted a chicken and baked bread within minutes!

Removed the screws that held the shield in place. Then unplugged the igniter and removed the 2 screws that hold igniter in place. I had to cut the connector off the new igniter and wire nut the old connector on because of a different connector.
I then put everything back together and ooolaalaa, it worked!!!!!!!

Thanks for the quick service,
Tom

Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.

It only required placing the new burner in the proper location.

Decided to replace both hinges. Using other instructions, lift the door with hinges off and away from the oven frame and place front side down on a table. Take a picture of the bottom edge to help you remember where all the brackets and bits go. Remove the screws near each hinge and all along the bottom. On one side lift up the inner door panel and pull out the old hinge from the bottom, replacing it with the new hinge. Repeat on the other side. Return all screws to their original holes, bottom edge first and then for each hinge. Replace door back to oven frame using reverse procedure.

To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.

After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.

Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.

Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.

The oven now works as it should.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

The repair was extremely easy. Just removed the old burners and dropped in the new ones. No tools needed.

Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.

First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Removed old valve and replaced it with new and knob as well.