JGB870DET3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Part came as ordered. Hardest part was fitting plastic wiring harness through the hole with 2 layers of steel with insulation in between. Used electrical tape to stiffen the end about an inch or 2 back from harness. Job done, problem solved

I got really great customer service on finally getting the right part. It came really fast it fit perfect but the cap is a high gloss black instead of a flat black. I will need to call customer service again to see if they can the correct color this time.
Otherwise everything was great!

The repair was extremely easy. Just removed the old burners and dropped in the new ones. No tools needed.

Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

replaced old with new.

It only required placing the new burner in the proper location.

Very very simple repair!!!!! Works great!!

remove old burner, put new in place

took burner off installed new one thank you for fast shipping

I have no clue what wire goes where because there is no thing to refer to or instructions of any kind . I have not been able to install the part.

I was disappointed with this parts recommendation..neither part solved the problem, a first with partselect. The Range Oven sensor change out was easy and straight forward once the back lower panel was removed. The SPARK MODULE was time consuming..the module is located and accessible only by removing the range top. Having gas burners requires unscrewing all the burners before tipping up the top and removing it, then removing the guard over the Module is next..it's a project, sure wish it worked when I was done!..turned out to be the oven glow bar....

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.