JS250DF1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

Nothing to it. Took off the old ones and put on the new! Tada - new stove!!

Fortunately there was no repair needed, just a replacement of old parts, but I was very pleased with the speed of delivery and the quality of the parts. I'm a happy customer.

I got tired of trying to find the right parts in the stores and decided to order them. Finally I have the drip pans that fit my range!

I removed the control panel by removing 7 screws and replaced the light indicator and lens.

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

Took off the ring burners and the old drip pans . installed the new drip pans and the old burners took less than 3 minutes...so easy

Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

Took back off and replaced.

I just inserted the replacement where the old one had been connected. It took less than 5 minutes. It was so simple & easy that 'repair' is too generous a word -- & I am NOT handy, in any sense of the word. It took me longer to figure out where to find the model number!

Simple to repair. Take off the cowling around the burner element on the stove top and pull out the old element. Slide in the new heating element with the cowling paying attention to the three spoke support areas on the stove burner frame. Very simple. A 5 minute repair. No tools required.