JGB620DEF1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

At first I didn't believe it was the igniter due to the fact that it was lighting up, but after reading some of these post, I thought I would give it a try. I accessed the igniter from the broiler drawer after taking out the pans. I removed two bolts with my nut driver and disconnected the wires at the plastic connector after removing the heat shield with a phillips screwdriver (1 screw). I also had to remove a clip to get the wires to pull threw the back of the stove. Here is where the fun began...While waiting on the part to arrive, I decided that it would be a good time to thoroughly clean the entire unit. During this process, I lifted the top of the range to far and cracked both front burner gas lines. After running around town trying to find the gas lines with no luck, I returned home and ordered them from PartSelect as well. The igniter arrived one day and the gas tubes the next. I reassembled the unit and everything works like new, thanks to PartSelect. One other note, when my igniter arrived, It had the exact same electrical plug that my original one had. Some of these post said that you would have to cut the connector off and use the porcelain wire nuts provided. The parts I received were manufacturer parts, no off brand replacements. Again Thank You PartSelect.

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

oven and stove top burners worked fine, but broiler would not light. diagnosed problem as bad igniter. ordered parts on line and received them next day with regular shipping!

removed oven door and bake racks. removed old igniter and snipped wires.

installed new igniter and used ceramic wire nuts to attach wire leads.

reinstalled door and racks.

works fine. who knew home repairs could be so easy and fun!

I removed the oven door, the base panel of the oven and slid out the broiler tray. Next, I pulled the wires out of the access hole in the back of the oven, then diconnected the modular plug and removed the 2 screws fastening the ignitor. I tested the ignitor with my ohm meter and found out that it did not have the necessary zero ohms resistance. The meter indicated an open circuit, so I ordered the replacement part, which was delivered in less than 24 hours. Then I reassembled everything and tried the oven. Works like new again.

Took bottom cover in oven off with screwdriver . Then remove two small bolts with socket to igniter , unplug from under stove and pull out from inside oven. Reverse to install. Wala done and working great.

removed the old part .I had to join the new part by clipping the clip off and us the ceramic caps which was included with the new part.Everything went well.

I was sure happy that they thought to add in the ceramic wire nuts. This Hotpoint stove had a direct wire, no wire clips like the new part had. I cut the wires and used the enclosed ceramic wire nuts. The stove works great. Parts Select helped in locating the model number which made this transaction a smooth one. Thanks. Always remember to turn off gas line and unplug any item you work on.

Replaced the ignitor in the broiler. Two screws holding the ignitor in place and two to the cover holding the quick connect plug.

Had to use the wire nuts because the plug did not fit.
I used the old plug and spliced the wires.Thanks for the ceramic wire nuts.

I got my part in a couple of days during christmas and still got at pretty quick it was 5 screws unpluged the old one pluged in the new one put screws back and we were ready to cook, did all from inside the oven did not even move the stove very simple!!

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.

Replaced the igniter. Quite simple.