JGB645DEK1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

Needed to replace the part in oven which lights the gas. My husband is more of a supervisor rather than a fix it yourself kind of guy. But he did it and it was hilarious watching him squeeze in a place meant for a smaller person with tiny hands, while holding the flashlight in his mouth. But the oven is fixed and works like brand new. Thank you

igniter was not glowing bright...removed old one and installed new one all within 30 mins.Part was exactly as description and picture really helped. Turkey for Thanksgiving will be served cooked by my oven.Thanks.. Daniel

Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

replaced the ignitor and it has worked perfectly the last week - Service repair walked away from the service call stating it was too random - you website state 91% cause, you were correct I wish I had done this 2 years ago

First I took off the oven door which was a snap. Then I removed the bottom drawer. I removed the i guess you would call it the spill pan which was two screws. removed the guard plate and disconnect the igniter and remove the two screws that was holding it in place. Peace of cake.

My husband replaced it within 15 minutes,was easy. We ordered the part on a Sunday and had it by Tuesday. Very fast.

thank you

removed the screws that held element in place, pulled out old igniter and replaced with new one.

Just replaced the igniter and it works fine now

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).