JBP71BF1CT General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Reza from Scottsdale, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
The broil element was burned through
First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.
Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.
Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.
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- Customer:
- Nathan from BILLINGS, MT
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven Temp. went too high and the door locked. Burnt the food
This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.
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- Customer:
- suzanne from brighton, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB55T10067
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Interior glass cracked due to heat
First we confirmed that the part delivered was the correct piece needed. We unscrewed the interior panel of the door and separated the insulation from the two pieces so the old glass frame could be removed. The rope type gasket gave us some trouble as it was difficult to stage the insulation, glass frame and rope at one time. Once we got the pieces in place it was a breeze to screw the panel back in just in time to make pies for our Thanksgiving dinner.
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- Customer:
- emmett from rocky mount, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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- Customer:
- Tom from FORNEY, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
F2 Error on Display
The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.
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- Customer:
- Chad from FRANKLIN, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
temp sensor in oven was failing.
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.
Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.
At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.
At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
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- Customer:
- Peter from Abbeville, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The front right outer element was defective.
My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!
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- Customer:
- marlene from Pilgrim, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
top oven heating element
I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.
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- Customer:
- Chandra from Naugaeuck, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burner element was burnt
It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.
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- Customer:
- CIRILO from WHITING, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
MYy wife left the oven racks in and used oven cleaner.
Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.
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- Customer:
- Linda from Ravenel, SC
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat.
My stove would not heat. I could see that the bake element had a hole burned through it. Found this website. I was confused about what part I needed so I called the phone number and the girl was very good at locating exactly which element my stove needed after I gave her the stove make and model #. I ordered the part on Thursday afternoon. The part arrived on Saturday afternoon.
The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.
Very very VERY easy repair!!!
The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.
Very very VERY easy repair!!!
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- Customer:
- Delores from Rocksprings, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB04T10022
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Grease spilled on old gasket----gasket hardened
Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.
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- Customer:
- Thad from Layton, UT
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dual burnner had somthing drop on it and it went out
I pulled out the range from the wall unplugged it from the wall then i opened the oven door and removed the two small screws on the front off the range and lifted the glass top and supported it with a 1/2" X 18inc wooden dowel, then i removed the two burner retaining screws with a small Phillips screw driver and removed the wires from the burner,
then i replaced the burner with the new one and reconnected the wires and placed the burner in to the two retaining clips and then tightened the two screws then i removed the wooden dowel and installed the two screws on the front bottom side on the range then i plugged in the range in and tested the burner then put the range back against the wall.
then i replaced the burner with the new one and reconnected the wires and placed the burner in to the two retaining clips and then tightened the two screws then i removed the wooden dowel and installed the two screws on the front bottom side on the range then i plugged in the range in and tested the burner then put the range back against the wall.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from FARMINGVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Incorrect oven temperature due to defective temperature sensor.
Performed repair using a video for reference.
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- Customer:
- STEVEN from FORT WAYNE, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Noticed that the lower heating element was flashing and popping. What looked like a welders arc went completely around the whole element and turned it to dust.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then went to pull the element out and one of the wires touched the side of the access hole. There was a spark and the electrical breaker tripped. (Remember to always shut the electricity off first). Before I put the new element in I took off the access panel on the back of the range, slid in the new element, attached the two screwd that hold the element in place. Then I went around to the back of the range and re-connected the wires from that location to make sure there was nothing around the wires that would spark. Put the access plate back on and I was done.
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