JB690DF2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.

Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.

I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?

This repair is really easy unless the trim piece has rusted so badly that it's attached itself to the front door glass. It took a long time and some WD-40 to pry the trim off w/o breaking the glass. REPAIR: Remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Unscrew the 3 bottom screws w/ small pliers, then unscrew the top two inside door screws w/ a small metric allen wrench. Remove the door trim to get to the last four side trim screws. Once the old trim is out just clean up any residue/rust remaining on the glass, install the new trim and reverse the steps to put the door back together. If the old trim comes off easily it should only take @ 20-30 minutes.

It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.

Removed the power plug from the wall, screwdriver and small socket allowed me to remove the front control panel. Once I located the pilot light I pulled off the holding clips and placed a new light into the holding clips...problem solved.

Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.

remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again