JGSP30GEP2 General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- JAMES from GARDEN GROVE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Igniter doesn't glow
I'm still repairing. The igniter was replaced with new but it still doesn't glow. I'm waiting for a schematic that is being mailed to me from GE. In the meantime I have borrowed a test instrument to check that the system is hot when the BAKE button is pushed. The controls light up as expected but no glow. The BROIL igniter glows when activated, lighting the broiler. The new Ignite was packaged very well so it isn't suspect. I LEFT YOU FOR A FEW HOURS. I tested the electrical with a meter and got zero voltage. I removed the wire nuts and using two alligator clips I connected the meter to the bare wires coming from the oven wall. I then hit BAKE again and BINGO! Replaced the defective wire nut and now the igniter is happy as a clam. --- Thanks for your interest and for expediting the material.
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- Customer:
- Nick from south st. paul, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
oven wont turn on but broiler does
Replaced the oven igniter
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Berkeley Springs, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not come on.
I changed out the old ignitor with the new one. New ignitor fit perfect on old mounting bracket. Attached the two wires and that was it.
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- Customer:
- Beth from Emerald Drive, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB14X104
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven door only opened 1/4 of the way
After reading the other DIY's directions, we explored how to remove oven door. When the part came in, my sister who was visiting, removed the oven door (30seconds), removed bottom drawer (30 seconds), noted where spring was attached, took off screws and spring, installed new hinge with roller, took a minute to decide if the new hinge came through the back or the front (front), she reattached the spring and screws. Put door back on and then struggles to put the drawer back into place. Total time less than 5 mintues, most time spent on returning bottom drawer to its home. Thanks part select for helping me not burn my self every time I try and get food out of the oven!!! I open the oven door all the way and am so delighted!!
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- Customer:
- David from Elizabeth, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Oven burner would not ignite
Removed shelves and floor of oven. Removed burner unit to access screws attaching igniter to burner unit. Disconnected wires of igniter. Put new igniter in place and reinstalled burner unit. Reconnected wires using supplied wire nuts. Tested unit. Reinstalled oven floor and shelves once successfully tested. Cooked Pizza.
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- Customer:
- Emir from New York, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Igniter would not start
1.Took out the metal pan.
2.Removed the ignitor bracket.
3.Disconnected the two wire mount the new ignighter.
4.Connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve.
5.New igniter glow wonderfully.
2.Removed the ignitor bracket.
3.Disconnected the two wire mount the new ignighter.
4.Connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve.
5.New igniter glow wonderfully.
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- Customer:
- Israel from Brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
igniter wasnt working
took off the door it should be very simple by opening the door just a little bit then pull up the door take out the shellves than take of the bottom of oven usualy there's 2 cap screws in back holding it down then take out the drawer from under the oven & unscrew the bracket that holds the flame pipe from underneath also unscrew the screw from inside the oven the holds the actual flame pipe in front next to the door then unscrew the old igniter from the pipe snip the old wire going out from the igniter & strip it a little & connect the new igniter put on the ceramic cover supplied together with the new igniter connect it back to flame pipe put everything back together you should be done. But make sure the wires are pushed down to underneath as much as you could also when you put back the gas pipe the wire should not be in the way underneath the oven
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- Customer:
- Michael from Haddonfield, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Oven would not heat.
First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.
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- Customer:
- William from Annapolis, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven not heating to bake items.
I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.
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- Customer:
- scott from west barnstable, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
oven would not light
I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Humble, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Not Working but, Roaster and Burners work
The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!
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- Customer:
- Richard from Katy, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven won't light & no gas flow
Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
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- Customer:
- Gary from Skokie, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
oven wont heat
I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.
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- Customer:
- william from chicopee, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Wires On The Stove Were Short.
Removed the back part of the stove to reveal the wires connected to the igniter. Removed the wire nuts and removed the igniter. Reused the old bracket to mount the new part. Attached the wire nuts and replaced the back parts of the stove. Worked like a charm.
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- Customer:
- Stephen from Randolph, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven Would Not Light
Removed the bottom cover plate and the bottom storage drawer. Disconnected the burner and removed it. Replaced the old igniter with the new one. The new one required the wire connectors from the old one to be spliced onto it. Reattached the ignitor to the burner and reinstalled the burner. Tested the new ignitor before reinstalling the cover plate and storage drawer.
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