JCSP39WW2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged over and remove oven racks. Dry fit new clips to hold up broiler element; using piers to insure secure fit to the element. Removed screws that hold element and attached clothes pins to wires to keep from falling back into the oven. Removed element from wires. Secured new/replacement element to wires removed clothes pins. Position element to be screwed into back of oven. Screwed into oven attached clips to oven and element. Plugged stove back into outlet. Turned oven on to test. Worked job done.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

Very easy to replace. So easy even a man can do it.

The customer service rep was brilliant in finding the
right part number! It was sent the following day
(with email to let me know) The part itself was just
exactly like the old one. I simply turned off the power,
removed the 2 metal screws and unplugged the
broken element. The new one fit properly and works
like a million dollars. For about $50, you made me
look like a hero in my own house! Thjank you

repair went fine, real easy.

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.

Real simple. Disengaged springs at the inside bottom, replaced hinges and reengaged springs.

Assumed this broken hinge was going to be an expensive service call. Decided to try and fix it myself. Ordered the part off partselect.com and got some repair tips off the website that made this a breeze. I am not handy at all but was able to complete the replacement in less than 30 minutes and spent only $30 on the part. Just needed to unscrew the old hinge and release the spring from under the stove (which I accessed by pulling out the drawer). It would have cost me over $100 to just get a service person to look at it.

It took a nutdriver to remove two nuts. The defective element was removed and the replacement installed. It works great!

I unscrewed the two screws inside the oven, then i pulled the oven away from the wall and unscrewed the protective shield, and undid the wiring. Then i removed the element. Once the new one arrived, i pretty much just did the same thing in reverse. vwa-lah... fixed!

Slid off the oven door and loosened the hinge assembly. Removed the storage drawer to unhook the spring and then took off the old hinge assembly.

Inserted the spring into the new hinge assembly and then installed it - just tightened the screws. Hooked the spring into the lower point. Slid in the oven door and tested it so that is opened/closed easily. Cleaned under the oven while the storage drawer was out.

We can now bake bread, pizza, etc. What a relief.

Flipped off the circuit breaker first. Unscrewed the two screws holding the element in place. Pulled out about 4-5 inches. Tried several times to pull apart the connections, finally got 'em - don't give up (I must have weak fingers). Then plugged in the new element, shoved the wires back in, screwed it back in place, flipped circuit breaker back on, turned the oven on.... made brownies (o:

Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.