JSS28DF1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

easy to do.

1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7. unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.

had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yum.

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now the whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.

Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!

Replaced

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

Replaced old with new.

Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.

First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.