JD750SF3SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Betty J from Anacortes, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10076
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed another rack for my oven
Really no repair. Just slid it in my oven and was so happy to have it. It was nice to find just what I needed!
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- Customer:
- Karen from BELLE ISLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
The control knob on the burner stopped allowing you to adjust temperature and would on turn the burner off when turning counter clockwise
I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process
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- Customer:
- Vilas from HANOVER TWP, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10132
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Back burner was not working.
Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.
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- Customer:
- Gregory from Pearl River, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB49X29679
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light bulb went out,could not find replacement part.
Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.
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- Customer:
- Frank from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10145
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stovetop radiant burner went out
Turned off power at circuit breaker. Disconnected electrical connections from stove and lifted stove top out of counter. Removed glass top by removing about 8 screws from side of stove top.Replaced burner element and replaced glass top.
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- Customer:
- John from Acme, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB23T10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven temp. was not what setting called for
turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB02T10017
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Convection fan came loose from shaft
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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- Customer:
- Orion from Vancouver, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB23T10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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