JBV42G*H1 General Electric Range - Instructions

pulled out the old one pushed in the new one

Plugged it in. It fit!

Removed 3 lower screws holding the upper oven inside door panel to the door frame. There is enough flexibility in the panel to coax it away from the frame at least an inch. Removed the old nut plate from inside the door and replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the retention pin and 2 washers while holding the nut in place. Assembled the 3 lower screws to complete the assembly.

My husband was able to easily remove and replace the switch and know with-in 15 minutes.

Took oven door apart to get to gasket. . . Took about an hour or less. Then I basically cleaned the entire over door while I waited for the part to come. When the new gasket came I started to put it back on. I used springed type clothes pins to hold the gasket in place on the middle part of the door which hold the glass. As I put on the out part of the oven door over the middle part of the oven door, I carefully took the pins off as I gradually slipped the 2 parts of oven door back together. After the gaskets were carefully adjusted to it's proper position, then I put the nut screw back in through the gasket holes to hold the 2 oven door parts back together. Then, I finally put the rest of the door back together. This took about an hour also. Not to bad when you have to do this by your selves. This is the second time I've put in a new oven gasket. The oven is 28 years old, so the gaskets last me about 14 years each time. We hope to keep the oven a few more year before we buy a new glass top style stove. Hope this was helpfull to all you diy's !!! Don

I have had to replace this unit once before. It was very obvious which terminal had burned off. Removed the total front panel. Removed the timer and replaced wires from one unit to the other. Also had to strip off one wire connection and replaced it .

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.