JGBP27DEM9WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

replace igniter

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

oven and stove top burners worked fine, but broiler would not light. diagnosed problem as bad igniter. ordered parts on line and received them next day with regular shipping!

removed oven door and bake racks. removed old igniter and snipped wires.

installed new igniter and used ceramic wire nuts to attach wire leads.

reinstalled door and racks.

works fine. who knew home repairs could be so easy and fun!

I followed the directions that I read online and the job was a breeze. I started by disconnecting the electricity, and sliding the oven out from the wall, then taking the oven floor cover off, then ordered Chinese, received a phone call from my sister( blah,blah,blah), Disconnected the old piece, paid for Chinese Food, ate Chinese, installed new piece, reinstalled oven floor, reconnected the electricity, pushed oven back into place, lit oven, turned it off and then tested it again. All in less than an hour.

Every part of the part replacement was easy with the exception of removing one of the two screws that were holding the igniter to gas bar. No fault of the part to be replaced in any way. One of the screws that hold the igniter to the gas bar stripped when I was attempting to remove it. Had to use a small cut off wheel and my dremel to cut the screw and then was able to remove it by screwing it all the way through the hole it was in. Then tapped the two existing screw holes to 10/32 and attached the igniter with new screws. Everything else was about as easy as you can get.

removed the old part .I had to join the new part by clipping the clip off and us the ceramic caps which was included with the new part.Everything went well.

Took bottom cover in oven off with screwdriver . Then remove two small bolts with socket to igniter , unplug from under stove and pull out from inside oven. Reverse to install. Wala done and working great.

Removed oven door and warming tray. Then removed two screws holding the igniter in place. Disconnect the plug visible below the oven after warming tray removal. Installed new igniter in reverse order.

Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

The part was the exact replacement and fit exactly. Had to cut some of the sheetmetal at the back of the broiler to get the wiring through.