42045 General Electric Range - Instructions

Absolutely no tools required for this task. Simply align the prongs to the female portion on the stove top. Carefully push in until the element is in place then line up with the drip pan slot. No instructions are necessary!!

Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.

This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.

Thanks for having the part available.

The only hard part about putting in a new terminal block (and this time I had to replace the burner too, because that fried too) is stripping the stove wires, because that thermal insulation is very hard to get off. Otherwise, it's simple. In this case, I had already replaced this one (sigh), so had already cut & stripped the wires, so it was all easy. Frankly, the sane thing to do is buy a new stove, but wife is too cheap.

Lined up the prongs and slid it right in, took 30 seconds.

I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!

Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.

Everything was very easy: identifying the right part was very easy on the website, the part came quicker than I expected, and my wife replaced the stove element before I even got home from work. She just pulled the old one out like she would to clean the top of the stove, and put the new one back in. Have had several awesome cups of coffee since the replacement.

First I removed the burners and pulled the stove out to get the back cover off. Removed the back cover after main power was shut off. Removed old burner terminal blocks and replaced with new ones. Replaced back cover and pushed stove back into place. Turned on main power to stove checked burners and they worked. DO NOT REPLACE OR DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON ANY MAJOR APPLIANCE WITH OUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE MAIN POWER SOURCE.

First, I removed the burner from the box and plastic bag. Second, I pushed the burner into the socket and that was it.
I also want to comment on how easy the ordering process was. I ljust love this website. All you have to do is type in the model number and up comes all of the parts associated with the appliance. My order shipped the next day and I had unit within 2 days. Also, the part cost $42.00 with shipping. My local parts place was $48.00, so I wound up saving $6.00 and did not have to leave my home to buy it. I will definetly use this site again.

I am the worst handy man, but I have to say, this was so easy. Web site was well designed to find the exact part I needed. The coils pull out of the blocks with moderate pressure. Stove top lifts up like a car hood and rests on little arms. The blocks unscrew from retaining holes with a few turns of a nut driver. Take the back of the stove off, a matter of 8 screws and two minutes. Poke the new wires through following the old wires, pull the spade terminals loose by hand or needle-nose pliers and replace with new. Polarity indeed does not matter. Incredibly fast. Took me a quarter hour. (We will not speak of the extra hour of cleaning areas no scrub brush had ever seen).

First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.

By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!

Did it By Hand
Your Shipment Time Excellant
Order it Mon. Received it Wed.


Thank You

I pulled out the old burner - put the new one in and I was done. No tools required.

The first burner I received from PartSelect was warped. I called on Friday morning to see about returning it and ordering a new one. The CSR was very helpful and I was totally surprised to have the replacement arrive the very next day since I didn't ask for a Saturday delivery. I will definitely use PartSelect again.

The longest part of the job was finding my misplaced nut driver!!Note:A small socket set will do.Unplug stove from outlet,remove rear cover panel,lift stove top up to access terminal. remove the one screw that holds the terminal and slide off the two wire clips that hold the wires up out of the way.next clip off the old terminal leaving the old wires so you can tape the new wires on just to pull them through the hole.Once you have the new wires pulled up to the heat control unplug old and replace with the new,tighten the screw on the new terminal and don't forget to slide on the wire clips

Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.