JDP47BF2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Scot from Oakland, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Leominster, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Large burner would not get hot
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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- Customer:
- Yungti from Tomball, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Broken element
First, disconnect the power from the electrical box, not just turn off that oven. specially if you have a double oven. Just turn one off is not enough.
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out slowly about 2 inches to expose the connectors, and then disconnected the two wires by holding the wire (female) connector by one plier and pull the element (male) connector out with another plier. Then, insert the new element connectors, and push the wire back into wall then fasten the element with 2 screws.
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out slowly about 2 inches to expose the connectors, and then disconnected the two wires by holding the wire (female) connector by one plier and pull the element (male) connector out with another plier. Then, insert the new element connectors, and push the wire back into wall then fasten the element with 2 screws.
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- Customer:
- Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB23T10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven was not coming up to temperature
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
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- Customer:
- Frank from St Augustine, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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- Customer:
- KERRY from CLEARWATER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB27T11076, WB27T10416
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Buttons stopped working on the keypad.
Everybody said the Electronic clock oven control needed to be replaced, not the keypad. It was the keypad. Unpluged the range. Pulled the 4 burner control knobs off, Unscrewed the 4 burner contol knob bottoms to remove the panel cover, removed 2 of the keypad screws an loosened the other 2. Removed 4 screws holding the oven control panel. Turned the panel over to access the keypad wiring ribbon. Released the ribbon, turned the panel over to remove the old keypad. Put the new keypad ribbon through the panel and pushed the ribbon into the ribbon slot, put the anel beck in place with 4 screws, slipped the keypad in place on 2 loosened screws. put the remaining 2 screws back in. tightened all four screws. replace the control panel cover and knobs. Plug back in and viola.
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- Customer:
- JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Two part burner, outer ring not working
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
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- Customer:
- LANCE from ORELAND, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Heating element burned out.
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
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- Customer:
- Jack from Okmulgee, OK
- Parts Used:
- WB08T10002
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Lamp Holder Burned
removed two phillips screws. Unplugged electrical connections replaced unit from PartSelect. They sent holder cover and new bulb (surprise). Great store with great directions.
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- Customer:
- Brian from Fairfield, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB23T10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Actual temperature did not match set temp
Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.
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- Customer:
- William from Lantana, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB41T10003, WB23T10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Seal worn on corner allowing heat to escape, sensor not reading the correct temperature
Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.
Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.
Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.
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- Customer:
- Frederick from Lovettsville, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10065
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
My light switch housing broke, making the oven light stay on all the time.
Most important: Unplug or turn off the breaker before beginning! (I briefly saw sparks as I removed the old switch.) Look at the replacement switch. The springs on the sides hold the switch in, which means you have to press in these springs to get the old switch out. I slipped a small screwdriver in on the side while I pulled with a small pair of pliers. It's tricky, but it will come out. Once you have the switch out, just unplug the wire in the back, making sure it doesn't fall back in the hole before you get the new switch on. Then, just push the new switch into the hole in the stove and you're done.
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- Customer:
- robert from pine valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10043
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Broil (top) element replacement for oven
After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.
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- Customer:
- Van from Hyde Park, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Inner element of dual burner died
-Turn off breaker
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Smithville, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Lower bake element cracked and eventually broken into two sections
Disconnect the Power to the Oven
1. Took out the baking racks
2. With a nut driver, removed the two machine screws holding the baking element.
3. Pulled the baking element out 3-4 inches and using pliers, removed the wires from the back of the broken element.
4. Reattached the wires to the new element and reversed process.
1. Took out the baking racks
2. With a nut driver, removed the two machine screws holding the baking element.
3. Pulled the baking element out 3-4 inches and using pliers, removed the wires from the back of the broken element.
4. Reattached the wires to the new element and reversed process.
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