Models > JDP47BF2BB

JDP47BF2BB General Electric Range

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$67.42
If the racks in your oven have become discolored, or if you need a spare, this is a genuine OEM replacement. The rack is used to hold cookware in the oven, and slides in and out of the oven for easy a...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
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$36.68
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
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This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
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This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main ...
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$11.59
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Must buy bulb locally as per manufacturer.
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This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops h...
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$12.22
This screw is sold individually.
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This is a broiler pan for your range. It catches drippings from the cookware, when broiling in the oven. This assembly includes the grill/grate and the bottom pan. These parts are made of porcelain. T...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JDP47BF2BB

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Scot from Oakland, FL
Parts Used:
WB30T10099
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Customer:
Kevin from Leominster, MA
Parts Used:
WB30T10045
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Large burner would not get hot
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
70 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Yungti from Tomball, TX
Parts Used:
WB44T10018
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
Broken element
First, disconnect the power from the electrical box, not just turn off that oven. specially if you have a double oven. Just turn one off is not enough.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out slowly about 2 inches to expose the connectors, and then disconnected the two wires by hol ding the wire (female) connector by one plier and pull the element (male) connector out with another plier. Then, insert the new element connectors, and push the wire back into wall then fasten the element with 2 screws.
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