JGBP33CEL1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove the broiler pan to get at the 2 nuts that hold the gas burner, remove them and then you can get at the 2 nuts on the back side of the igniter.

My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm

Remove the front door-lifted off(no tools) removed the floor of the oven (2 standard nuts at the rear). nut driver to remove the igniter. Took longest to untwist and retwist wires & dropped screws. reassembled and tested...worked perfice. this is the 4th time I've used Parts Select and It's great....Thanks and keep up the good work!

Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cover off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it

1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.

The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.

After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.

Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.

I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.

IThe schematics on the website were helpful for how everything goes together. I just followed the picture and then unscrewed all the screws that held the ignitor to the gas pipe. Have to pull out the gas pipe out first so you can get to the bolts, easy to do when you pull out the drawer and unscrew the hold down for the gas pipe.

No directions came with the part, and the length of the new wires weren't long enough nor did they have the attachment pieces that are needed to plug in the wires. However, helpful tips from others on the website told me that you have to cut the wires off the old part and screw the wires from the old to the new with the white plastic wire couplings. Worked like a charm!

It was a simple procedure, and I saved myself buying a new stove or paying someone else to fix it!

• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.

Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.

First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea what I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.

i went for 3 months waiting on the electrician who never came then asked the plumber who else could fix it and he said my husband could it only needed to unscrew 4 tiny screws and unplug and cut and twist wires back the hardest part was reaching the bolts hooked to the ignighter the burner was in the way and is not as easy to remove as someone has said all in all it saved us 100 dollars and could have saved us months of burning food trying to cook on broil if i had only called the plumber first.ha ha

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one word to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.