EGR3001ED1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

I specifically asked if $16 plus would be the sole expense for this item. I was told that it would be plus there would be no cost for return of the rubber feet. Several hours later I was emailed an invoice that the cost would be $26 plus for four rubber grill screw-like items, a vastly over-priced item. I called and learned through the email system that the item had not been shipped. I requested cancellation at 5AM Saturday. Friday night order led to Saturday morning cancellation -- and Monday morning delivery despite my specific request to cancel. I am not satisfied. It seems like I have been hustled.

layed the range on its side and removed the gas valve installed the new valve leak checked and tested works like new. Great service and parts availability, shipping was fast.

Replaced old with new.

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

This oven is from 1993 and a lot less complicated than today's models probably are. The first things to do are to remove the oven door and broiler pan. On this model, the oven door simply lifts off the hinges. Once these are gone, you want to remove the oven floor. To remove, locate the two screws at the back of the floor. After removing, lift the floor up and towards the back to pull the floor tongue out of the groove in the front. This will expose the gas jet and ignitor assembly. At the front of the jet pipe is a screw that holds the pipe to the front center of the frame - it is underneath so you may have to bend over to see it, it can be felt easily as well. Remove this screw, this will allow the pipe to be moved a little later. In front of the assembly is a vertical metal plate with a screw at the right of the mounting the plate into the broiler floor. Remove the screw and slide the plate to the left to pull out another tongue/groove set-up. Now you should see the wires completely and the connection to the air-flow adjuster. There is a small screw in the front of this brass fitting, it does not need to be touched. Turn the burner pipe clockwise while lifting and this should pop the assembly up. The ignitor is mounted to the burner pipe by 2 screws that are found on the bottom of the mount. Remove the 2 screws, this will allow the ignitor to hang free. Be sure to pay attention to what wire attaches to what wire, I marked the left wire so that I knew which to reconnect to after the change over. Remove the caps on the wires if this unit has been removed before, if not then mark the wires on both the replacement unit and the original wires. My ignitor has been replaced before, so I used my wire cutter to clean-up the ends of the old connection before reconnecting the new replacement. At this point, you should be able to fire-up the oven, it might take a moment for the new one to warm up, so give about 30-40 seconds. If the oven fires up, it's then working to put everything into place in reverse order. I like to line up the parts and pieces as I remove so I can just put back in reverse.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Removed old line with wrench and attached new line to gas valve first. Then lowered hood to the stop and attached gas line to burners.........very easy and works fine now.

Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.

1. Removed oven door.
2. Removed shelves.
3. Removed oven bottom.
4. Removed pan drawer.
5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening.
6. Removed top burner nut.
7. Pulled igniter out from top.
8. Snipped igniter wires.
9. Removed igniter from burner
10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts.
11. Attached new igniter to burner.
12. Replaced burner.
13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer.
14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer.
15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner
16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.

Turned off the gas. Disconnected gas inlet, burner supply line and oven supply line from regulator. Unscrewed regulator from its bracket. Replaced with new regulator in reverse order and added teflon tape suitable for gas lines to all threads.

Unfortunately, the regulator was not the cause of the problem and the oven still does not prehead - acts exactly the same.