JDP47BF1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

Everybody said the Electronic clock oven control needed to be replaced, not the keypad. It was the keypad. Unpluged the range. Pulled the 4 burner control knobs off, Unscrewed the 4 burner contol knob bottoms to remove the panel cover, removed 2 of the keypad screws an loosened the other 2. Removed 4 screws holding the oven control panel. Turned the panel over to access the keypad wiring ribbon. Released the ribbon, turned the panel over to remove the old keypad. Put the new keypad ribbon through the panel and pushed the ribbon into the ribbon slot, put the anel beck in place with 4 screws, slipped the keypad in place on 2 loosened screws. put the remaining 2 screws back in. tightened all four screws. replace the control panel cover and knobs. Plug back in and viola. But I replaced Bouth (-:

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

Easily glide in.

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

replacement was easy. pulled away the stove from wall. unplug the stove. open oven door. remove the two hex head screws holdings stove top. raise the stove top in the front. supported stove top with a 16 inch piece of wood. place New Burner under old burner. remove old burner remove wires remove old burner and place it on top of new burner connected the wires from burner to new burner. install new burner. remove support lowered top down. plugged in stove tested. .burner. burner w.ork fine. reinstall hex head screws back top. pushback stove back into the wall. testes over again. all the stove work done.

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

The age of the system resulted in the cook top being heavily stuck by food-stuff to the range surface. The result was a twisting of the top when breaking it free. It caused the cooktop (a $500+ part) to crack diagonally across the whole surface. Thus ended the quick do-it-yourself process, and out to buy a new range. Parts-select was very good about the return process of the un-used and un-opened burner element.