JB905BH3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not."
It was a snap!

My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.

The burner would work but you could not regulate the heat. I ordered and replaced the control switch for that burner. The part was like for like and reasonably priced compared to other websites and dealer. The picture showed that it was identical. I ordered one day and it was here the next. I had drawn a diagram of where the wires went on the old switch so it was very easy to replace. Probably took me 15 minutes or so. Works perfectly and by buying from this website it saved me a few bucks.

Turned off breaker for stove. Pulled stove from wall and turned it to access back. Unplugged cord for better movement of unit. Took off back panel exposing connecting wires and disconnected them all. Unscrewed element and sensor screws using small socket wrench and removed from oven. Replaced three items and rescrewed. Went to rear of stove and reconnected all wiring. Moved stove to plug back in and turned oven on. Everything worked fine so I let the unit cool for 20 min to 1/2 hour. Replaced back panel and pushed stove back in place. Fairly easy repair. DO NOT lean on oven door! Oven will tilt forward with enough pressure.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I order the part online on the 23rd of February 09 in the afternoon it was delivered on the 24th to the address in Florida and then fedex to me in Cayman. So I got it on the 2nd of March went home that evening after work got my pliers unpluged the stove removed the two screws that holds the element in place. I also removed the metal from the back of the unit first to make sure I was doing it right. I then pulled the element at the back and disconnected the two wires replacing it with the new one. I then replaced the back and screws and pluged it in turned on the oven waited and when I saw it turn red I felt so good. I said thank you Lord and then baked a cake. The whole installation took about 20 mins.
Thanks again.
P.S. please look into offering shipping orders overseas.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.

Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to prevent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.

Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.

Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.

The hardest part was getting the correct part. I trusted the on line number and the first part I received was incorrect. I should have taken the part number off the old switch. When I did, I found out that the part number changed when I tried to order it. When the part came, the wiring instructions were not even close. I just took one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the same terminal of the new switch. The repair was/is very simple made complex and too much time because of a wrong part and incorrect wiring instructions. As far as getting the incorrect and correct parts through the mail it was very fast. Received both parts in less than 3 days. A bonus is that I sent the old switch back for a rebate. Thanks for that.

Yeah, so I didn't read the manual the first time we ran the self-clean cycle on the oven. Something about taking the racks out. So these were my little reminder to never do that again. The old racks came out; the new ones went in. Ten seconds. On to the next embarrassment...

With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.