J2B918BEK3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Would have been easy, but I should have checked the measurements more carefully as it didn't fit. But the service from Part Select has been excellent!

plug in thermistor when needed

just slipped it in

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

Turned off circuit breaker, Then pulled out range, straight out and away from wall and cabinets. Layed braket on flooring and moved stove back in to make certain it aligned with range rear stands. Moved range back out, marked holes in braket, screwed in screws to anchor bracket. Pushed range back into placed against wall. Tried to |"tilt" range by pulling down on door after opened - range was held in place sre

nothing to it.

Open a HUGH box to get a smaller box that was surrounded by air bubble packing. Opened smaller box, removed the range's center rack and replaced it with the griddle.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

I had to remove the back panel on the stove to free up taped wires to get more length.

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

attached the element,pushed it back in the pocket,put the plate back on, screwed the nut and bolt back on and was done in less than 4 minutes!!

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."