JB910BK6BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.

Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!

plug in thermistor when needed

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Replaced both these parts. Pretty self-explanatory. No problems. Unfortunately these parts did not resolve temp. varying as much as 60 degrees from the assigned temp. If anyone else has solved this problem-let us know. Your company delivered parts very quickly and well packaged. Thanks

Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable and delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida

Took door apart to clean inside of glass door. scraped most of the wax from the stove 99%. Could not get the last 1%. Cleaned all parts. Put door back together again, put the door seal on after I got the right one. Had to reorder a new seal(one that was actually made for that model) messed up the first one and whalla! Took about 3 weeks to clean off the wax from stove and the surrounding area. Stove is good as new. Thanks for the quick service. Would definitely recommend and use you guys again. Thank You.

Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the oven door, Removed two screws holding the metal housing from the oven wall. pulled the assembly forward, removed the two electrical wires from the back of the socket, installed new gasket on back of metal assembly,inserted the wires thru the hole in the metal assembly, attached the wires to the new socket, pushed the new socket in place making sure the two holding clamps were in place, screwed assembly back in oven wall, replaced new bulb, replaced glass cover over bulb, Replaced oven door, turned the power back on, Light works like new.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

Fit like a glove.

A cleaning spray was allowed to caused a short circuit of the infinite control switch. Here is the sequence of a very easy way to repair it: Turn off the power to the unit. Take the bottom metal cover off. You should be able to find the one that was burnt out (my was the bigger surface burner switch). Take photos of how each colored wire are connected ( I used my cell phone). Review the photos!! You will see that the switch has two clamps holding the metal cover to the plastic casing on the sides. Using a narrow screw driver, pop loose the plastic casing from the metal clamps. This way you don't have to take the unit totally apart. The metal casing should be fine. Clean it well, making sure it is dry. Take the new switch and also take the plastic casing from the metal top cover. Replace the metal pin and the plastic casing only. Make sure you line it up the same way with the little blue box in the same orientation. You may not have enough room for your hand and your view. By feel, you should be able to place it there and pop it in. Check the taken photos and connect the wires following the same diagram. Replace back the metal cover. Turn the power on. Enjoy dinner!!! Michael.

Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!

Open oven door, unlock hinges and lift off. Lay on face on carpet or piece of cardboard. Remove 2 screws at top that go thru door and hold handle assembly. Remove 3 screws on bottom that hold bottom door trim to inner door. Carefully turn assembly over (hold it together so you don't drop the glass front!) and place back on floor, hinge side down. Lift off front glass and frame assembly. Lay flat on floor. Remove 4 screws that hold bottom door trim to side frames. If glass is stuck to bottom door trim (which it probably will be from rust and gunk)..... Remove 4 screws that hold side frames to upper handle assembly and completely lift glass and bottom trim out. Holding glass vertical, stand on the bottom trim piece and carfully work the glass up and out of the groove (do not wiggle it side to side or you will need to buy a new piece of glass). While you have everything apart, clean all the parts and remove the decade of gunk. Reassemble in reverse. The long screws at the top of the door that hold the upper handle assembly in place, have spacers around them, they thread onto the screws and maintain distance and alignment when re-assembling. Also, I found it easier to remove the handle from the upper piece (4 screws) to allow me to lay the whole assembly flat while screwing the bottom, side, and upper trim pieces together around the glass front. Once that is done, then put the handle back on before you assemble it to the inner oven door. That is it !