JBS03C2CT General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was very simple removed old element by removing two screws and disconnecting the element from the wires and reinstalling the new one.

took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.

removed element found a crack and replaced with new one I got from PartSelect.com. with fast fast shipping,thanks you saved me for spendin more money on a new one. it happened on christmas day of course......

First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.

Was a piece of cake removed 2 screws, pulled element out. Pulled the wires ooff the old unit and put them on new unit and screwed it back in.

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

Isolated to control switch.

Replaced

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

Exactly followed the instructional video and my installation was flawless. Now the burners power up and function like new. The whole repair was smooth and easy.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it, took the back off, unplugged the old terminal block and removed it. Attached the new block and ran the wires through to the back and plugged them in. Reattached the cover on the back of the range, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into place.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

Real simple used a 1/4" nut driver. Left excess wire in tray below control knobs.