J2B918SEK3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

Was a piece of cake removed 2 screws, pulled element out. Pulled the wires ooff the old unit and put them on new unit and screwed it back in.

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.

attached the element,pushed it back in the pocket,put the plate back on, screwed the nut and bolt back on and was done in less than 4 minutes!!

took 5 minutes with a nut driver and son. I had previously watch your video and went exactly as the video described and showed.

I watched the video on this website and it couldn't have been easier. The only thing I did differently was I took the door off for an easier reach. To take the door off, you open just a little and pull up. It makes it so much easier to get at the screws, and maked the repair a snap.

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

This part is a PC Board. Step 1 - pull the oven away from the wall far enough to permit access to the back. Step 2 - Unplug the oven. Be careful of the gas supply line. Step 3 - Before touching the new part, wear a "grounding strap." Step 4 - Using a "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws that connect the top cover plate that covers the control assembly. Once the screws are removed the top of the cover will need to be rotated a bit to the rear to remove it from the oven. Step 5 - Carefully remove the ribbon wire by gently grasping the locking bar tabs with a thumb and forefinger and pulling back until the ribbon wire slides out. DO NOT use any force here. Gently move the ribbon wire out of the way being careful to make no crimps in it. Step 6 - Using a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws holding the oven control assembly to the oven. Carefully remove the foam insulator connected to the bottom two screws. Step 7 - Locate the new oven control assembly above the old assembly and begin transferring the wires, one at a time. Care here is needed as the connectors are tight. Grasp the connector with your fingers and pull straight back. DO NOT pull the wire. Step 8 - Once all wires are transferred dispose of the old oven control assemble and screw the new assembly back on to the stove. Use a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver. Insure the foam insulator is attached to the bottom two screws in the appropriate holes. Step 9 - Once the oven control panel is secured, insert the ribbon wire carefully and close the locking tab. Step 10 - Install the top cover. Make sure the bottom lip is under the foam insulator and that all wires are clear and free before pushing it tight to the stove. Replace the fastening screws. Step 11 - plug-in the stove and insure all oven functions work correctly. Push the stove back into place.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy