JGBS23WEA5WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Myra from SCOTLAND, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB19K10044
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
my ignitor stopped working ,then the gas pressure regulator and safety valve needed replacing.
Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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- Customer:
- Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- michael from The Villages, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
burners would not light
Remove the old tubes. Lift the lid NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES. !!!!! Feel for the connections on the switch ends and attach losely. Carefully ( with some slight bending ) attach tubes to the burners. Tighten all connections. Do not over tighten.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
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- Customer:
- Juanita from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10070, WB16T10046, WB16K10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
gas burners not heating evenly
remove old burner, put new in place
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- Customer:
- Marie from Woodstock, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Front burners had to be lit with lighter
My son lifted up cooktop, unscrewed the front plate to gain access to old tube burners, removed and replaced with new parts.
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Maureen from Locust Valley, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB15X10048
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven handle broke off
Couple of screws and it was done. Simple and inexpensive since I thought I was going to have to buy a new range.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Omaha, NE
- Parts Used:
- WB15X10048
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Orignal oven door handle had multiple fractures and was fast becoming useless.
Removed the old handle with the new one.
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- Customer:
- Rebecca from Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB27T10469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
no display
Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Riverside, RI
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Hot Spot On Burner
Replaced old burner element with new, easy
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- Customer:
- Charles from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replace medium burner for gas cooktop
Very easy to remove grates, burner cover and remove old burner head. Very simple process, but surprised that there was no efficient way to clean carbon deposits from my old burner. Burner video instructions on line insured I installed the new burner head correctly (actually, pretty hard to get wrong), and burner worked correctly immediately. Will likely replace other burners in time as the new one is so "silvery" colored compared to my other burners.
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- Customer:
- AL from PHILADELPHIA, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
broken left /right range lines broke off
loosen the compression fitting both ends and screwed new ones in place .
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- Customer:
- William from Lincoln, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB07K10005
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
End cap cracked. Tried to fix it with epoxy, but it didn't work.
Used screwdriver w/star bit to remove two screws (longer one on top). Removed cracked end cap. Placed new end cap into position, making sure all tabs were correctly aligned. Replaced screws (top one first)tightening them slowly & alternating back & forth so as not to crack the new part.
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