JCB900BK4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Had to remove rear cover to connect wires, removing them from the front caused the wires to fall into rear.

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

Removed old switch, put metal jumper from old switch to new one and connected wires to the new one . Reinstalled. Works great.

unscrew and disconnect the old unit. Connect and screw in the new unit

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

Becuase of the fire we had used a chemical based fire extinguisher, which made a real mess in the whole main floor of the house. I removed the oven from the house and used a leaf blower to get rid of all the white chemical powder (like a baking soda of sorts). Once that issue was done, I removed the part in less than 5 minutes. Two screws to remove it and then unpluged the two wire clips from the back of the stove under the shield which also had 6 screws to remove. It took only 3 days to have a new one delivered and I installed it in less than 5 minutes. The oven works fine now. It took much longer to clean the house than fix the oven.

I didn't know anything about this repair, other than I was replacing a part, so it never occurred to me that I needed to make sure there was no power to the oven. When I pulled the element out, there was a large spark. I flipped the breaker off, then finished the R&R.

Make sure you turn power off at the breaker, then replace the element.

Tim

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation

1.Disconnect the power cord. 2.Remove two screws pull the element out. 3.Disconnect the wires attach to element. 4. Install the new element connecting the wires. 5. Align element with holes and tighten screws. 6. Plug in power cord and begin to cook.

Removed the rear panel from the Range using the nut driver. pulled the terminal wires off the back of the heating element. Double checked if there was continuity across the heating element terminals before removing the element. If there is none, its bad. remove the two screws inside the oven holding the element in place. Once free, lift the front of the element to about 30 degrees and pull towards you. Insert the new element in the reverse manner then secure it using the two screws. Push the terminal wires onto the terminals on the back of the element and reinstall the rear panel.