JGRP17BEW1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.

Turn power to oven off at the breaker.
Remove access panel to upper control panel.
With the aid of an extension rod remove the hex headed screws succuring the fan to the baffle wall. Remove the fan. Replacement model did not have wire extending from it. So remove wire from original fan and attach it to the replacement fan terminals using an appropriate adapter. Install new fan in original position with original screws. Be sure to reconnect wire in the same orientation as the original fan (right side to white wire). Repeat process for the second fan in the upper control compartment. Handy trick for re-installing hex head screw in deep location....use a small piece of electrical tape to hold the hex head screw head inside the socket driver. After tightening is completed the tape will fall away from the screw.

Check that all wiring connections are back in place and tight. Re-install cover and turn the breaker back on. Test the oven out by heating it up again. It will take approximately 30 minutes to reach a steady state temperature inside the oven so that the circulation fans in the control panel turn on.

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.

I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in position underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.

Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.

just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

Open door lift door off hinges lay door face down on flat surface remove 6 phillip head screws 3 on each side lift housing out of door case remove end knob phillip head screws installed one knob insert bar attch second knob and tighten screws lay housing back into casing attach screws doing one at a time on each side slide door back on to hinges and test operate, you are done!

Took door off of hinge
Removed 6 screws from bottom of door
Removed glass
Removed screws from side of door
Removed door from frame
Replaced the end caps using exisiting screws
Put door back together in reverse order
Pretty easy but simple instructions would have made it a 15 minute job instead of 30

Unscrewed three screws from each oven door. Unbolted the end pieces and replaced with new ones. Reinstalled oven door screws. Nothing to it.

popped the new one on!

Step #1: Remove 2 screws at the inside top of the oven door that holds the inner/outer oven door together. Step #2: Remove the screws from the inner door that hold the plastic handle end caps to the door. Tip: Use a file to dress up the tips of the metal handle bar so that it fits easily into the new plastic handle end caps. Step #3: Install the first new plastic handle end cap. Step #4: Slide the metal handle bar into the plastic handle end cap that was just installed on the outer oven door. Step #5: Place the other plastic handle end cap on the metal handle bar. Step #6: Install the second plastic handle end cap on the outer oven door. Step #7: Reassemble the oven door by installing the screws that were removed in step #1.

By myself