JSP47CF5CC General Electric Range - Instructions

The actual repair was relatively easy but access to the area in the oven made it a little difficult. Just unscrew 5 screws with a nut driver, unplug the old element, plug in the new element and reinstall the 5 screws. The only thing that made this repair difficult was being able to reach the connectors where you plug in the new element. They are loose wire connectors that don't reach very far out of the element receptacle. It was difficult to hold the end of the connector and plug in the new element because the oven door is in your way. Maybe it is easier if you take the oven door off first?

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

Easily glide in.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

just slipped it in

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

replacement was easy. pulled away the stove from wall. unplug the stove. open oven door. remove the two hex head screws holdings stove top. raise the stove top in the front. supported stove top with a 16 inch piece of wood. place New Burner under old burner. remove old burner remove wires remove old burner and place it on top of new burner connected the wires from burner to new burner. install new burner. remove support lowered top down. plugged in stove tested. .burner. burner w.ork fine. reinstall hex head screws back top. pushback stove back into the wall. testes over again. all the stove work done.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.