JBC17G*R3 General Electric Range - Instructions

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

Easiest repair I ever did. Killed the circuit breaker, then removed the oven door, loosened the 2 hex nuts with a nut driver, pulled the old element out a few inches, loosened the nuts holding the wire to the element. I then put the new element in place, connected the wires to the element, pushed it back in to the insulation, and then replaced the nuts on the cover piece. Put the circuit breaker back on, and done!

Turned off the power. Removed the screws holding the built-in oven to the wall. Slid out the oven. removed the four screws that were holding the inner oven walls to the outer oven walls. Slid the inner oven wall out 1/4", removed old gasket material and replaced with new gasket. Slid the inner oven in tight and replaced the screws.

I have a 22 year old GE double oven with a range top that I can't live without. I do alot of cooking, baking, and my share of entertaining. To replace this oven I would have to sacrifice having 2 ovens...or remodel my kitchen and reposition their location. So when something goes wrong with this oven I cringe. It needs to keep ticking for another 10 years. A friend recommended PartSelect. looked on line and found the part resembling mine. I called just to confirm the part was correct, and found out it was not. I looked up the part number the said was correct but the shape was wrong. I order it anyhow and when it arrived it was what I needed. The picture on the website was inconsistant with the part number. So I'm really glad I called and spoke to a rep. The part arrived in 4 days and the next day I installed it, needing only one tool. Doing it myself saved me a few hundred dollars and my oven works great again. And their price was lower than a local parts dealer. I added PartSelect to my favorite list for future needs! Thanks!

Unpluged range. Removed back cover to access the infinite switches . removed old burner and drip pan. removed terminal block and retaining screw on cooktop. removed terminal block wiring from infinite switch taking care to mind were the wires came from. Install new terminal block and reattached to cooktop . installed new 8" burner and drip pan reinstalled back panel and plug in electrical to unit . tested burner . replaced stove after verifying burner worked

scissors and opened bag. determined that all three knobs were identical. aligned slots on each knob with flanges on each shaft.
snapped each knob into place.
Did a happy dance of empowerment around the kitchen. ( knobs had been broken for at least 5 years).
used timer to avoid burning christmas cookies.
Have a Merry one!!!

The replacement was a digital clock instead of analog. The directions were a little confusing, but adequate for the change. We removed the old clock, and followed the dirctions for replacing it. We made three tries to get the wires correctly connected and on the third try, it worked fine. However, I had to return the three knobs since the digital had push buttons. It fits into the space perfectly and we are very happy with it.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

There was nothing to it...I unplugged the Sufrace Elements from thier bases, removed the Drip Bowls, replaced the Drip Bowls and then plugged the Surface Elements back in to thier bases. The entire process could not have taken more than two minutes.

First turned off the circuit breaker. The two screws holding the element in place were removed. Next the element was pulled out about 3 inches. Wires were disconnected. Old element was removed. Wires were then attached to the new replacement element. The element was then re-attached to back of oven, using the two screws. Circuit breaker turned to on. About 5 minutes. Took longer to change the flashlight batteries!

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.