JB600WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.

Unplug stove.
Remove rear panel of stove with a nut driver or socket. Remove knob from switch and use small screwdriver to remove screws on front panel switch. Remove and replace each wire contact one at a time to ensure correct wiring configuration. Replace screws on front panel to secure switch. Plug stove in and check that it works properly. Replace rear panel and move stove back in place.

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

Turn off the power at the breaker. Use hex head bit from 4 in one screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver. Heating element comes out, take off wire clamps and install new piece. Put screws back in, turn breaker on and that's it!

I ordered part at 10am on Monday and part arrived at Noon on Tuesday 24 hours WHAT MORE can I say... It was all easy and now I have to cook again, so much for the stove is broken excuse.

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

Removed bolts unplugged unit then plugged new unit in. Put bolts in and unit works great.

UNPLUG the oven. Following what every else was doing, I removed the element first, then disconnected the contacts. The leads on the contacts are not overly long, so I found myself removing cover on rear of oven when reconnecting red and yellow wires. Required removing two more screws with nut driver. Should I have to replace another element, I would remove rear cover first, unplug wires from element, remove element. Reverse procedure with new element.
While waiting for new element, be careful when turning on stove top element. Don't turn on oven by mistake, and when you do it, turn it off as fast as you can.
If you use stove top while waiting for part, don't forget to UNPLUG the oven. Won't be but a day or two. Very happy customer.

In a panicked state, my roommates and I could not turn the cleaning setting off. So, we "Jerry-rigged" the door open to save the house from the awful burning pizza smell and potential fire. We removed the stove top with the nutdriver only held in with three nuts. Removed the insulation promptly after. Disassembled the latch mechanism with the star wrench set. The scariest part of the replacement was looking confused at the new part. To our dismay, the part looked grossly under sized. we thought it would not fit. After placing the part in place of the broken latch we found the replacement fit better than the previous and was a totally painless success. Do-it-yourself, not that complex and an excellent way to save money.

_Jeffrey B.

unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.