EER3000F01TW General Electric Range - Instructions

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

I first used an Allen wrench to unscrew the two screws that held the back of the oven door to the front. Then when I got that apart it revealed about 12 other screws that held the handle and trim vent piece on together. I unscrewed each of those with the socket set (it took me a while to find the exact size I needed). I took off the handle and trim piece and slid the new piece onto the slots, put the handle back on and then worked in reverse order to screw all the screws back into their places. The only problem was that I didn't realize some of the screws were a bit longer than others and by the time I took them all off and went to screw them back in, I realized that I hadn't noticed which places needed the longer ones and which had the shorter ones. So if you are doing this repair note that not all the screws are the same and you will want to remember which ones go where before putting them in a big pile like I did. After all the screws where in place I pushed the back of the oven door together with the front and used the Allen wrench again to screw them tightly together. Pretty easy overall- at least for a housewife!!

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

After reading all the repair stories I knew that their wasn't any extra wire when the old element is removed. Well, even with that knowlage one of the wires came loose and slipped back in. Fortunately I was able to remove a panel in back and push it back through. I was afraid I would have to take off the whole back but instead there is a panel covering the wire running down the center of the oven. After removing 5 screws with the same nut driver as the one for the coils I had it done in minutes. I had no problem and I am NOT a 'do it yourselfer'. Oh, did I mention I ordered the part on Friday and received it on Saturday standard shipping? Pays to live the next state over from the place shipping it.

Red Light Off

1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top

The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Replaced switches. Dual power switch had been updated and didn’t match original part but there were accurate instructions in package to allow correct wiring easily.
Good job Parts Select.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.

The new element had some kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)

Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.