JBP25DK2WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now the whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.

This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

I first pulled the stove away from the wall to unplug and look from the rear. Look at the wiring from the back (you may have to remove 2 screws and the plate that covers the wiring) and take a picture of it if you can with your smart phone - this way when you go to put it back you have a reference. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 little bolts holding the element in place. Wiggle it toward you slowly so the wires don't pull off. It's easier if you use needle nose pliers to get the fittings off, if its hard wiggle the fitting it will come off. I put the connections on the new element and squeezed them tight not to move. I did put a small piece of electrical tape on the connection ends for my piece of mind. Screw it back in and, plug it in and turn on. If the element starts to glow your done, put the cover back on over the wires and slide it back in place. If your kind of handy you can do it.

Took out the 2 screws,Pulled out the stove
Took the back off ,took the wires out of the little place where they fit in,Removed the old element.
Put the new one in Fitted the little thing which looked like a alumium flat piece back where we took the old one out.Put the back back on cut it on wheepe In business.Also the new element came here faster than I thought it would .I,m a 71 yearold grandmother.Pretty simple.

My stove would not heat. I could see that the bake element had a hole burned through it. Found this website. I was confused about what part I needed so I called the phone number and the girl was very good at locating exactly which element my stove needed after I gave her the stove make and model #. I ordered the part on Thursday afternoon. The part arrived on Saturday afternoon.

The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.

Very very VERY easy repair!!!

Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.

Open the package and slide the Knobs in place. 30 seconds to place 4 knobs.