JSS26BW2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.

I turned off the power going to the stove, unscrewed the 2 screws, plugged in the 2 inserts, put the 2 screws back and PRESTO!!!!

Removed the old burner bowls, replacing them with the new ones.

All I had to do was just unscrew the bolts,pull out the old one, and put the new one on its metal clips and then rebolt.So easy and I know I would have had to pay much more then what I did for the part..This place is super.I ordered my part one day, and it was there the next...Sandy

Instead of flipping circuit breaker, we pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged it. Used socket wrench to loosen screws of bracket holding old element onto the back oven wall, then gently pulled element until connecting wires appeared. Removed the 'clips' attached to the old element prongs and discarded old element. Reattached the 'clips' to new element prongs, then gently pushed prongs into back into oven wall until the bracket was flush with the wall. Used socket wrench to screw and tighten the bracket into place. Plugged in the oven and tested the new element to make sure it worked. The whole process took only a few minutes.....it took longer to clean the oven before installing the new element.

Removed oven racks and took the opportunity to clean my oven. Then removed the two hex head nuts holding the burner assembly in place. I slid out the burner (very slowly) hoping the connectors were intact and that there was enough lead wire to make for an easy repair. Yes... there were 2 inches of lead wire. It took a couple of minutes to swap out the parts and... success!
Don't forget to turn off the circuit breaker before starting repairs.

It took a nutdriver to remove two nuts. The defective element was removed and the replacement installed. It works great!

1. Turned off electrical breaker for range.
2. Removed the two hex head screws that hold element in place.
3. Pulled element out and unplugged the two electrical connectors.
4. Attached connectors to new element and attemped to push element back into the opening. It would not go in all the way.
5. Apparently some of the insulation had fallen down and was blocking the area where the element slides in.
6. I used a long thin screwdriver inserted into the two holes to push the insulation aside.
7. The element was then able to go in all the way.
8. Replaced two hex head screws.
9. Turned on range breaker.
10. Turned on oven. Works fine.

first i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires .then i connected the two wires and pushed thebake element back and replaced the two screws.then i put the circuit braker back on and tested the stove and it worked great. very easy to do.

The job went over without a hitch, only probably didn't get the correct part first go around, but after getting the right part everything went very easy..Just a couple of screws where the elment goes in and 2 wires to plug back into the new element, after that everything was good to go!!

The only hard part about putting in a new terminal block (and this time I had to replace the burner too, because that fried too) is stripping the stove wires, because that thermal insulation is very hard to get off. Otherwise, it's simple. In this case, I had already replaced this one (sigh), so had already cut & stripped the wires, so it was all easy. Frankly, the sane thing to do is buy a new stove, but wife is too cheap.

Lined up the prongs and slid it right in, took 30 seconds.