JGBP28DET3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Just replaced the igniter and it works fine now

Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

replaced the ignitor and it has worked perfectly the last week - Service repair walked away from the service call stating it was too random - you website state 91% cause, you were correct I wish I had done this 2 years ago

Replaced the ignitor in the broiler. Two screws holding the ignitor in place and two to the cover holding the quick connect plug.

two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!

igniter was not glowing bright...removed old one and installed new one all within 30 mins.Part was exactly as description and picture really helped. Turkey for Thanksgiving will be served cooked by my oven.Thanks.. Daniel

Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

removed the screws that held element in place, pulled out old igniter and replaced with new one.

Took bottom cover in oven off with screwdriver . Then remove two small bolts with socket to igniter , unplug from under stove and pull out from inside oven. Reverse to install. Wala done and working great.

The part was the exact replacement and fit exactly. Had to cut some of the sheetmetal at the back of the broiler to get the wiring through.

removed oven door racks and pan from bottom of oven. removed warming drawer unplugged oven igniter removed 2 hex screws from bracket on igniter. replaced with new one fiched wire down to warming drawer area plugged in. replaced door and warming drawer. works fine now. very ez to do!

removed the old part .I had to join the new part by clipping the clip off and us the ceramic caps which was included with the new part.Everything went well.

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).