JD630DF1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

Removed back panel, change out sensor

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Easy

Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.

Followed example on YouTube! Very easy.

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

Easily glide in.

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

Removed two screws to access burner. Removed three power clips from burner, reattached the clips to new burner, removed brace clips and attach to new burner, close lid and reattach stove cover.