JBP35SIM6SS General Electric Range - Instructions

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Easy

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.

popped the new one on!

Mice took over trailer, after eliminating mice, and cleaning oven and range thoroughly, I noticed that the only place the mouse urine smell was still coming from was the vent tube. Noticed soiling around tube where it went through and into oven. I removed the center rack, layed some foil to catch any debris that may fall from the tube when it is removed. I removed old vent tube simply by removing the two nut screws on the roof of the oven. I had to pry it out a little bit. I then cut out and soiled insulation with razor knife, I inserted the new vent tube from the inside, and replace 1/4 nut screws and tighten.

Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.

My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Thank goodness for PartSelect.com
When we moved into our home the microwave and electric range are obsolete appliances and were missing parts. PartSelect.com has pictures of parts on one inch grid pattern so I was able to select the hard to find parts that would fit perfectly and they did.

It was easy to just replace the old burner bowls rather than try to clean them. The peices ordered from Parts Select were a perfect match and they arrived on a timely basis.

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

Took out the original drip pans and set in replacements which I ordered in black enamel.
Slipped right in and look great as the oven door glass is also black. Look like they came with the range.

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

Took out the old ones and replaced with the new ones. Very simple task. It didn't take 5 minutes.