JBP28DR4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

We purchased a completely black range then my wife disliked the rangetop being black so I ordered a white replacement she loves it. It was so easy to replace. Very pleased.

standard procedure, very simple

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

Cut Wires to old terminal block and wired in new Terminal Block

replaced handle, which was an exact fit and very easy.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

No parts dealer had a window for this particular oven door. But the associate at Part Select helped me find one that was the right dimensions. The internet videos I found describing installation of a GE oven glass window all described a glass held in place with brackets that don't exist on this model. The broken window was obviously held in place by adhesive. I found a video showing installation a Whirlpool oven window. The construction of the door seemed very similar to mine and the video explained how to attach the window inside the door with high temperature resistant double sided tape. I used Gizhome 3M Double sided Tap. I set door flat on a table unscrewed all the screw (two different size torque screws and 3 screws with nut tops) that held the outer cover to the door. Then I used a putty knife to scrap the old adhesive from the outer door frame. The top of the window is held in place by the metal panel behind the oven door handle. In order to slip the glass under the metal panel I slightly loosened two small screws that held the metal to the door frame. When the door handle is reinstalled it will hold the panel in place. I attached a strip of double sided tape across the entire area that I had scraped adhesive from. I added a short strip of double sided tap on both sides of the window frame, (I'm not certain that was a good idea). I carefully slipped the glass under the metal panel and lowered it to the frame while watching for exact fit. When I tightened the large door handle screws they tightened the metal snugly against the glass. I clamped the glass to the frame at the bottum and placed several bottles of water as weights along the sides of the frame and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. The project took me several hours because of all the research I had to do. I was thankful for the parts associate's help finding a comparable window.