JBP23GR5SA General Electric Range - Instructions

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days

First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Removed two screws and unplugged electrical connectors to the baking element. It was that easy.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.

Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to prevent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.

Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.

Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

took of the back panel with a nut driver,pulled off the wires one at a time ,put them on the new switch in same position as the old switch.removed old switch with a screwdriver ,screwed in new switch,replaced back panel,put on switch knob

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel