JB710TT3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Easiest to remove the front panel from the range and then once the cover is off, proceed from behind the range. The wires are short and gives minimal access. I moved the wires from the old board to the new one, one at a time so I didn’t mix up the connections. When plugging the range back in an error message appeared. Just select any button and it reset.

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

Took me a second to remember that YouTube is just as handy a tool as what I've got in my toolbox. The installation of the new glass was as easy as apple pie. Anybody that has ever used a screwdriver could manage that fix and do so single handedly. PartSelect.com came through with an easy-to-navigate website, a very reasonable price range and anything you could ask for to help fix whatever has broken. I quoted a gentleman in my town, a handyman, and he came back with a price tag of over $300 for parts and labor! Even with tax, shipping and the new glass I came in well under $100, and the labor was next to nothing. If i ever have to replace or fix something in my house again, I'll be using them, Without a doubt. Thanks for everything, dudes. Cheers!

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Took a picture of the old heating element to make sure that when I replaced the new element the wires were in the exact location as before.

Part WB30T10126 Triple Haliant Element-12 Inch was returned to you under Returns Reference 15682540. Mailed by USPS Tracking #9505 8161 4647 1005 7628 41. According to USPS, it arrived at your location Friday, Jan. 15, 2021 @ 10:49 AM. Please advise. Thank you, William Deal

First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. I used new gashket and ignitor.

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.