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JB710DT2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

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All Instructions for the JB710DT2BB
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Customer:
John from Woodbridge, VA
Parts Used:
WB25T10041
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Orange light "Hot Stovetop" lense broke off.
Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.
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Customer:
Morris from Ardmore, TN
Parts Used:
WB24T10058
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Left front burner would only heat on high setting.
Identified part and part # using schematic found on GE website, contacted PartSelect and confirmed part number, ordered and paid for part. Two days later I recieved part. Unplugged stove, removed two screws on bottom side of front panel and two on top back of same panel, pulled panel forward, pulled the control knob off, removed two small screws that hold the control switch in place, situated new control switch next to bad switch and removed one wire at the time from the bad switch and connected to the same terminal on the new switch. Put everything back together and Bingo, works like a new one. Thanks PartSelect for the friendly, personal phone service, the fast shipment and competitive pricing on my part.
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Customer:
brendan from lebanon, NH
Parts Used:
WB17T10011
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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Customer:
Don from Flagstaff, AZ
Parts Used:
WB35T10209
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
dead mice in insulation, chewed wire on latch switch
replaced insulation
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Customer:
Roman from West Chester, PA
Parts Used:
WB04T10086
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Spilled 1/2 gallon Hot wax on stove
Took door apart to clean inside of glass door. scraped most of the wax from the stove 99%. Could not get the last 1%. Cleaned all parts. Put door back together again, put the door seal on after I got the right one. Had to reorder a new seal(one that was actually made for that model) messed up the first one and whalla! Took about 3 weeks to clean off the wax from stove and the surrounding area. Stove is good as new. Thanks for the quick service. Would definitely recommend and use you guys again. Thank You.
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Customer:
noah from Canal Fulton, OH
Parts Used:
WB56T10179
Difficulty Level:
Very Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
I shattered the exterior oven door glass (black)
This was the second replacement glass I've bought, but I'm unsure if the first one was from PartsSelect or GE directly. It was a couple years ago when I purchased the first one. The first one popped in rather easily. I scraped out the rust and debris that had built up within the lower metal track and then inserted the glass. By pulling upwards on the door handle I had just enough room to pop it into the upper plastic tabs. The second door I bought was harder. I truly feel the second was larger. I tried the original procedure, but there was significantly more glass at the top, and I couldn't push up on the handle to even clear the handle itself. I removed the glass to re-cleaned the lower track, but it was clear of debris, so that wasn't the problem. I had to completely dismantle the outside plastic frame, insert the window and put it back together. It did fit after that, but now the door scrapes at the top ever so slightly when you shut it. Overall I'm very satisfied, since the oven is older now, but looks great again.
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Customer:
Kenneth from Salem, OR
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Customer:
daniel from gap, PA
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
f-2 or f-3
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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Customer:
Joseph from Powell, OH
Parts Used:
WB07X42966
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Part rusted ... Looked bad.
Fit like a glove.
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Customer:
lynn from sunnyside, NY
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
F2 reading
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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Customer:
Thomas from Albuquerque, NM
Parts Used:
WB02T10017
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Convection fan came loose from shaft
Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."
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Customer:
jud from gatesville, TX
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
F2 error code
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
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Customer:
Joe from Harkers Is., NC
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Oven slow to heat up
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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Customer:
Keith from Annapolis, MD
Parts Used:
WB21X22134
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
The oven temperature could not be controlled
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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All Instructions for the JB710DT2BB
76 - 90 of 106