JB670DP3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.

I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?

My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.

It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.

Unscrewed frame and dropped in glass...easy

Very easy to fix with two people and works great

Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.

Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Open oven door, unlock hinges and lift off. Lay on face on carpet or piece of cardboard. Remove 2 screws at top that go thru door and hold handle assembly. Remove 3 screws on bottom that hold bottom door trim to inner door. Carefully turn assembly over (hold it together so you don't drop the glass front!) and place back on floor, hinge side down. Lift off front glass and frame assembly. Lay flat on floor. Remove 4 screws that hold bottom door trim to side frames. If glass is stuck to bottom door trim (which it probably will be from rust and gunk)..... Remove 4 screws that hold side frames to upper handle assembly and completely lift glass and bottom trim out. Holding glass vertical, stand on the bottom trim piece and carfully work the glass up and out of the groove (do not wiggle it side to side or you will need to buy a new piece of glass). While you have everything apart, clean all the parts and remove the decade of gunk. Reassemble in reverse. The long screws at the top of the door that hold the upper handle assembly in place, have spacers around them, they thread onto the screws and maintain distance and alignment when re-assembling. Also, I found it easier to remove the handle from the upper piece (4 screws) to allow me to lay the whole assembly flat while screwing the bottom, side, and upper trim pieces together around the glass front. Once that is done, then put the handle back on before you assemble it to the inner oven door. That is it !

Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.