JB670DP3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Unpack the new cooktop and set it upside down on a towel or blanket. Unplug the stove & pull it forward from between the counters. Open the oven door and remove the two screws securing the front edge of the cooktop. Lift & tilt the top up until you can unhook the back edge from the pins that hold it. Pull it forward until you can access the two wiring harnesses & the green ground wire. Take a picture of the harnesses & pinch the sides to unclip & remove them. Unscrew the green ground wire and set the screw aside. Flip the cooktop over and take another picture of how the burners are attached to the cooktop. Unscrew the green ground wire & use needle-nosed pliers to carefully remove the clips holding the burners. This is a little tricky - the flat top of the clip has a small tab inserted in a numbered hole in the top of the burner. After removing the clips holding each burner, carefully move the burners onto the underside of the new cooktop. Use the photo you took to reposition the burners on the new cooktop and reattach the clips using the same numbered holes as before. Reattach the green ground wire. Carefully flip the cooktop back over on top of the oven and use the photo you took to reattach the wiring harnesses and green ground wire. Tilt the cooktop as you hook/hang the back edge back onto the pins (this was also a little hard). Reinsert the two screws under the front edge to resecure the cooktop. Plug it back in to the outlet, and push it back between the cabinets.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.

Got a new knob.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

very easy and clean.

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

First unplug range from electrical outlet!
Removed screws under front edge of stove top, propped it open with long paint stick, pried clips off of the element, unplugged and plugged in new element, push element back into clips, closed top on stove, plug back into socket, tested new burner, put screws back in under top front edge of stove top!!!

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.