JB640DIR4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Talked to parts select tech after ordering the control board. Tech advised me that he felt the range could be repaired without installing any parts. Advised me to contact manufacture tech support and explain the problem. I did to find that the child safety lock was on, probably from cleaning and touching too many buttons at once while whipping surface. Told me to hold down + and - at the same time for three seconds and it was fixed.
Parts select tech had told me don’t worry the parts are guaranteed so I called for a RMA and returned the parts for a refund. Thanks Parts Select, y’all are real professionals and that is greatly appreciated.
Thank you all.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

threw out the old ones and slide in the replacement ones from you.

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

Unpack the new cooktop and set it upside down on a towel or blanket. Unplug the stove & pull it forward from between the counters. Open the oven door and remove the two screws securing the front edge of the cooktop. Lift & tilt the top up until you can unhook the back edge from the pins that hold it. Pull it forward until you can access the two wiring harnesses & the green ground wire. Take a picture of the harnesses & pinch the sides to unclip & remove them. Unscrew the green ground wire and set the screw aside. Flip the cooktop over and take another picture of how the burners are attached to the cooktop. Unscrew the green ground wire & use needle-nosed pliers to carefully remove the clips holding the burners. This is a little tricky - the flat top of the clip has a small tab inserted in a numbered hole in the top of the burner. After removing the clips holding each burner, carefully move the burners onto the underside of the new cooktop. Use the photo you took to reposition the burners on the new cooktop and reattach the clips using the same numbered holes as before. Reattach the green ground wire. Carefully flip the cooktop back over on top of the oven and use the photo you took to reattach the wiring harnesses and green ground wire. Tilt the cooktop as you hook/hang the back edge back onto the pins (this was also a little hard). Reinsert the two screws under the front edge to resecure the cooktop. Plug it back in to the outlet, and push it back between the cabinets.

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Followed the directions!

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

My repair went better than i thought since you had in stock original pieces for this range. I was giving it to a relative so they would not have to go out looking for a new range...

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.