JB620BR5WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

Super easy repair! There are videos online if you have one type of oven, I had the other type (with the little silver plate right above the latch part). The trick is to remove the handle from the assembly itself before removing or placing it in the oven. 4 screws total and I recommend needle nose pliers to help remove the wires.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

Remove the old oven latch and replaced it with the new replacement part. It was very easy to remove and replace with just a few nuts removed

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

unscrewed element from back of oven disconnected power source. Replaced new element & screwed new wires onto back of oven. Took 5 mins. Works like new. I am 73 yr old female so anyone can do it!

very easy and clean.

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

It was just a matter of removing 5 screws that attached the broiler coil to oven top. Then carefully removing coil so as not to cause wires attached to fall into the back of the oven. Needed an extra pair of hands to hold coil while i guided the wires back thru the opening. All that was left to do was to secure the broiler coil to oven. All completed in less then 30 mins. A lot easier then originally thought. And, a lot cheaper then getting a repair person to do the job.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

THE TWO 8' ROUND HEATING ELEMENT
1. LIFT THE LID OF THE STOVE FROM THE SIDE. SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PRY IT A LOOSE. BE CAREFUL HOW YOU LIFT IT FROM THE BOTH SIDES WITH A FLAT SCREWDRIVER.
2. BECAREFUL HOW YOU PRY THE WIRING FROM THE OLD HEATING ELEMENT. THE WIRING IS FRAGILE. REMEMBER THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO TAKE A LOOSE THE OLD ONE. I HAD MY SON TO HELP ME BECAUSE I FIRST PULL THE CLAMP BACK WITH THE SCREWDRIVER AND HAD HIM TO HOLD IT TO OLD ONE STILL HOOK UP TO THE WIRING. I PLACE THE NEW ONE IN THE CLIP. THEN I TOOK ONE WIRING AT A TIME TO THE NEW ONE.

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

Easy