JB620BR3WH General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and needed to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.

The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient

called service co. and described problem while i was looking at parts diagram and he agreed with my feeling what part got fried. he told me the part would be 183.00 plus labor and drive time. when i told him i was looking at the part on line for 65 dollars he hung up on me. i recieved the part and was slightly dissapointed to know there was a sepperate adhesive overlay. i saw that it was a sepperate part but if i knew it was adhesive i would have spent the extra 20 dollars for a new one. but, to my surprise the old one peeled off easily and gently re-apllied it to the new conrol board alighning it well seemed to be the trickiest part of the job. took the five wires with connectors out of the old one and inserted them into the same place on the new one. removed the old one from the frame (4 pan phillp sheet metal screws) and then screwed the new wired control board in. plugged in the unit and pressed the bake button and then mixed the brownie batter. replaced the back panel cover. 65 dollars and 15 minutes.

thanks

bob

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

The repair was simple. All wires were color coded and the new part had the same color codes marked. Simply unplugged the wires from the bad part and plugged them into the new part a reinstalled the part to the back panel of the range.

1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.

Received new glass. Removed the handle assembly from the range door (2 screws on each side on the inside of the range door). Inserted glass and had to align the side rails while hold the glass and then mount the handle assembly. This was doable but required 2 people to complete.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

First step is to unplug the range. Then simple to remove top portion of two part back panel behind controls console, then remove knob and two screws for control, then use needle nose to transfer push-on connectors from old control to new control one at a time, finish re-assembly in reverse order.

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days