JSS26*J1 General Electric Range - Instructions

The bake element in my 17 year old GE free standing electric range became defective. This element has 2 terminals -- black (240V) and white (neutral). While removing the element from the range, a 2nd black wire was pulled out of the back of the oven. This wire had a bare terminal connection and apparently had been loose behind the oven shell for all these 17 years. Inspection of this wire showed it carried 115V. I wrapped this wire with electrical tape and reinserted it into the insulation behind the oven shell.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I replaced it with the new element that took only two days to arrive and that was without paying extra express shipping fees. It couldn't have been easier. I didn't even wait for my husband to come home and install it. I had an oven-baked meal ready when he got home. I was very satisfied.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

My sons helped with that. They had to use a pliers to remove the old screws (did not have to notches). After that they they removed the element. Then the wires had to be disconnected (after we unplug the oven from the main power source. Then the wires were connected to the new heating unit. We only got one screw in so far will work on getting the second one in when they return tomorrow. I did turn on the oven and it works!!!

Thank you to the nice young man that helped me on the phone.

First off the part was easy to find on Partselect...

Second point... ordering was easy and shippment was fast thanks to Partselect...

Replacezment was fairly easy useing a Nut driver and a pair of pliers...took about 40 minutes.

Thank you Partselect...

Chuck

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I had begged my husband for 1 1/2 years to fix the oven and he said it would be cheaper to buy a new one but he wouldn't go buy one. So I decided to fix it myself. I removed the screws that hold the element and then I pulled the element out and disconnected the wires. I then hooked the wires to the new element and pushed it back in place and attached the two screws. I made sure to put the insulation back in place and now I can cook cornbread again! Thank you so much for making this so easy for me to do by myself.

Turned off circuit. Unscrewed old element. Connected new element and screwed it in. Worked like a charm. It shipped very quickly. Could not be more satisfied; total repair: $30 and prevented me from buying a new oven; satisfaction: priceless.

Open oven door about 3 inches - then holding on the door on either side - pull up and door slides off - put it aside - this is to make it easy for you to work inside oven compartment - at rear of oven where the element goes into the back wall - there are two nuts to remove - I did not have a nut drive so used a pliers (GE could have put slots in the nuts so one would just need a screwdriver) - pull element forward - there are wires attached to the 2 ends of the element - remove with screw driver - element is off - get new part from PartSelect -(and must say pleased with their service) - and reverse above procedure.

The part was very easy to locate on the website. The shipping was very fast and the part was easy to install!

Two screws to remove the element and two screws for the wire connectors and it was done.

First, I turned off the circuit breaker. Then I removed the two screws on the hinged plate that attaches the element to the back wall of the oven. Then pulled out the two wires attached to the element by screws. I detached the old element and reversed the sequence to install the new element. Very simple operation for the average homeowner.

1) turned off breaker to oven
2) removed oven racks
3) removed screws holding old element
4) pulled out element far enough to remove 2 wires attached to old element
5) noted colors, left white, right black
6) attached new element to wires
7) attached new element to oven
8) put back oven racks
9) turn breaker back on
10) test oven
done
EASY!!

order process went very well - easy to do