JCB909WK3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

A cleaning spray was allowed to caused a short circuit of the infinite control switch. Here is the sequence of a very easy way to repair it: Turn off the power to the unit. Take the bottom metal cover off. You should be able to find the one that was burnt out (my was the bigger surface burner switch). Take photos of how each colored wire are connected ( I used my cell phone). Review the photos!! You will see that the switch has two clamps holding the metal cover to the plastic casing on the sides. Using a narrow screw driver, pop loose the plastic casing from the metal clamps. This way you don't have to take the unit totally apart. The metal casing should be fine. Clean it well, making sure it is dry. Take the new switch and also take the plastic casing from the metal top cover. Replace the metal pin and the plastic casing only. Make sure you line it up the same way with the little blue box in the same orientation. You may not have enough room for your hand and your view. By feel, you should be able to place it there and pop it in. Check the taken photos and connect the wires following the same diagram. Replace back the metal cover. Turn the power on. Enjoy dinner!!! Michael.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable and delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida

Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!