PCS968DP2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

took out old gasket and inserted new

First I found a u-tube video on how to repair this. I found the model number of my stove and used my phone to take a picture of it. I found the part on part select.com and ordered it. It came within a few days.
Turn off electricity to the stove. There were two screws to loosen and allow me to lift the glass stove top. It did not come off and we made a stick to hold it open. Then we unplugged and removed the old burner paying attention what was plug in where, maybe 4 plug ins. Then we clipped it back in, closed the top, rescrewed the top on. Turned on the electricity. It took 10 minutes to replace. Very easy!

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Removed back panel, change out sensor

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!

Followed GE repair video

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.

Replaced it

Installation team. A personal comment--your representative, John, that I spoke with this afternoon was very helpful when I called to question a charge on my credit card statement, and you can be certain that if I have need of an appliance part again, I will think of your firm first.U.L.S. Emory, Texas.

plug in thermistor when needed