JS905TK4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!

Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.

I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!

The actual repair was relatively easy but access to the area in the oven made it a little difficult. Just unscrew 5 screws with a nut driver, unplug the old element, plug in the new element and reinstall the 5 screws. The only thing that made this repair difficult was being able to reach the connectors where you plug in the new element. They are loose wire connectors that don't reach very far out of the element receptacle. It was difficult to hold the end of the connector and plug in the new element because the oven door is in your way. Maybe it is easier if you take the oven door off first?

Shut the power off at the electric box.Disconnected coil from roof clips.Pulled wire connection from back wall. Disconnected wire clips, connected new unit.Clipped to roof and turned on" Working fine".

Followed directions from Rodney of Erath La. Directions were perfect and helped me to decide to under take this job. Job took a little longer spending some time to clean the glass top on both sides and around the counter top where it mounts. The actual repair time was quick and easy thanks to Rodney. Price of the part was reasonable and delivery got here quick. Will deal with parts select again! Carl from Florida

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

remove knobs and plastic nuts behind them, remove the six hex head screws holding switch plate, Remove two screws holding problem switch to plate. Swap wires one for one and reverse the process to complete repair. PS don't forget to turn off the range at the breaker panel.